What to make of food’s claim to queerness? John Birdsall, the author of a 2020 biography of James Beard, makes immensely satisfying strides in answering the question in his book’s title—What Is Queer Food?—and in the process shares an approach for future writers, cooks and scholars ... What Is Queer Food? puts the sensual and the sensory at the fore, and it pulsates with hunger for what’s possible when queer life and expression is examined through food.
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